The 1990 is softer than the 1989 (because of the vintage's greater ripeness), as well as lower in acidity, giving it a marginally more forward and flattering set of aromatics and flavors. However, the impression is one of a big, beefy, thick, super-rich wine offering that tell-tale L'Angelus nose of smoky vanillin oak, olives, jammy cassis, and spice. Picking a favorite between these two fabulous examples of their respective vintages is - for me - presently impossible. I will probably end up drinking the 1990 before the 1989, but both wines are 25-30-year wines, with the 1989 possibly reaching full maturity in 5-6 years, and the 1990 needing several more years of cellaring.

More of this wine may be available at a higher price.

In many respects, the 2002 may be even more impressive than the 2003. A far more challenging vintage to get everything right, and especially in St.-Emilion, where many disappointments have been produced, this is one of the wines of the vintage and (along with Pavie) among the finest wines from the Right Bank. It possesses a deep purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of creme de cassis, blackberries, wet stones, and wonderfully perfumed floral notes. When the wine hits the palate, it exhibits impressive purity, medium to full body, a multi-layered texture, and extraordinary precision and intensity with a finish just short of 50 seconds. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2035.

This wine has an imperfection.

A spectacular value as well as a sleeper of the vintage is the 135,000-bottle cuvee of 2003 Carruades de Lafite (50% Merlot, 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc). This amazing effort rivals such superb second wines as the 1989 Bahans-Haut-Brion and 1982 Forts de Latour. A serious red, it is sexy, opulent, rich, and luscious with silky tannin, enormous body, and wave after wave of mocha-infused black cherry and cassis fruit. It is almost too good to be believed. While drinkable now, it should evolve for 12-15 years or longer.

One of the best second wines I have ever tasted, the 2003 Chapelle d’Ausone is rivaled by the 2003 Carruades de Lafite and 2003 Forts de Latour. Dense ruby/purple to the rim with an extraordinary nose of flowers, figs, black raspberries, blueberries, and sweet cherries along with striking minerality and precision, this exquisite second wine represents the essence of Ausone. It should drink well for 25+ years. No one in Bordeaux has made greater progress in taming the extraordinary potential of this noble terroir than Alain Vauthier, an obsessed perfectionist if there ever was one. He has instituted a Draconian selection at this tiny estate, both in the vineyard and the cellar, and the second wine, Chapelle d’Ausone, has also become one of the region’s finest wines. Prospective purchasers should be aware that Ausone requires 10-20 years of cellaring before it approaches maturity.

Revealing considerable amber in its dark plum/garnet color, this intensely fragrant 1982 is somewhat of a paradox in that the front end suggests full maturity, but the mid-palate, finish, and overall texture denote a closed wine. A gorgeously sweet entry displays flavors of caramel, roasted coffee, jammy red and black fruits, coconut, and smoke. It is fat and full-bodied, with considerable tannin, structure, and muscle in the finish. Flamboyantly rich and precocious early in life, it is going through an awkward stage where the tannin is present, but it is also sexy, juicy, and formidably-structured. When the 1982 Cheval Blanc's component parts become totally in sync, it will be capable of meriting a three-digit rating. Anticipated maturity: now (?)-2015.

Intense aromas of tar, blackberry and wet earth, with just a hint of tobacco and flowers. Full-bodied, chewy and long. Extracted, yet turns caressing and velvety in texture. Broad-shouldered and muscular for this estate. This is better than the 2000. Best after 2012. 3,500 cases made. –JS